Viewing the Autumn Leaves in Yabakei and Visiting Usa ~NOV,2025~

Yabakei is the general name for the gorge that unfolds in the upper and middle reaches of the Yamakuni River, and is a scenic spot with many different faces, created by the erosion of the large amount of pyroclastic flow deposits (welded tuff) from a major eruption that occurred one million years ago. This time, we visited the famous Hitome Hakkei, where countless stone pillars standing like grave markers and gaps in the cliffs are covered with trees of various colors.

Rai Sanyo visited the area in 1818 (the first year of the Bunsei era) and named it "Yabakei." As one would expect from someone who wrote the entire Nihon Gaishi in classical Chinese, he gave the landscape a Chinese-style name that is reminiscent of a landscape painting. In the Meiji era, Fukuzawa Yukichi, whose father was a samurai of the Nakatsu domain, purchased land at Kyoshuho with his own money in order to preserve the landscape. The national system of designating "places of scenic beauty" protects land with excellent scenic beauty, and although this site was designated four years later, it was not until 1919 that it was designated.

The pyroclastic flow erupted from a caldera near Mount Kuju, north of Mount Aso, and looking at a map, the eruption site is about 50km away in a straight line from Yabakei. Volcanic ash from this massive eruption 1 million years ago has apparently been found in the Osaka area, so it's easy to imagine it was a huge eruption. Kyushu is a very interesting place for caldera enthusiasts, with Mount Aso as well as the still-active Kikai Caldera and Sakurajima.

Mount Yufu is clearly visible from the inn in Yufuin, which is our base. The most recent eruption was 2,200 years ago, but the andesite lava dome that rose from underground and the collapse of the mountain caused by the impact of the eruption have created a rugged mountain shape, giving the impression that it is still an active volcano. Mount Tsurumi is also located in the Beppu area, so volcanoes and hot springs are inseparable.

It's been 30 years since I last drove around this area, when I took my two-year-old son to Sanrio's Harmonyland when we were still in Hiroshima. The construction of expressways has progressed so quickly that I'm amazed at how quickly we can access Kitakyushu, Kurume via Hita, and Miyazaki. Usa Jingu Shrine is also easily accessible via the expressway. This shrine is the setting for the "Usa Hachiman Shrine Oracle Incident," in which Emperor Shotoku, who was re-enthroned by Empress Koken, had Wake no Kiyomaro confirm the oracle to make his favorite monk, Dokyo, his successor. The main deity is Hachiman, or Emperor Ojin, and Iwashimizu Hachiman Shrine was enshrined from this shrine.

This shrine has been revered by the Imperial Court since ancient times, along with Ise Grand Shrine. Along with Hachiman, it enshrines the Three Munakata Goddesses and Empress Jingu, and its structure reflects the faith of the maritime people of the Kitakyushu area (the Azumi tribe) and its connection to the Korean Peninsula. The main hall is designated a national treasure.

This area was also the first port of call on Emperor Jimmu's Eastern Expedition, which began in Hyuga, and is an important point for exploring ancient history. The Imperial Court has sent imperial envoys to this area at important milestones throughout history (such as the change of emperor), and along with Nara Buddhism, it became a place of prayer for the peace of the nation, and prayers were held there every time a major war broke out. This shrine is said to be the first place where a portable shrine was carried, and it was originally built as a place to pray for the suppression of rebellions by the Emishi and Hayato people of southern Kyushu in the 7th century.

It is also believed that this is where the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism began, and Miroku-ji Temple, which was built within the temple grounds during the Hakuho period, continued to exist until the anti-Buddhist movement following the Meiji Restoration. The remains of the temple grounds remain, along with the foundation stones, but many Buddhist cultural assets were also scattered here. Fortunately, some of the Buddha statues were able to be evacuated to nearby temples. 

Two of the principal images of the shrine have been moved to Gokurakuji Temple, adjacent to the shrine, and we were able to worship the Maitreya Buddha, which was placed in the lecture hall. Maitreya Bodhisattva is the highest ranking bodhisattva, and is promised to attain enlightenment and save all living beings as a Tathagata in 5.67 billion years, but this Buddha statue shows him after he has already become a Tathagata.

The Yakushi Nyorai statue that was placed in the main hall of Daizenji Temple was evacuated.

The temple buildings of Miroku-ji Temple are said to be in the style of Yakushi-ji Temple in Heijo-kyo, and it is thought that the temple had a strong faith in Yakushi Nyorai. It is kept inside the Yakushido Hall, and I had intended to look at it from outside before leaving, but the wife of the head priest came out and kindly allowed me to view it. It dates back to the early Kamakura period and is designated as an Important Cultural Property.

Dairakuji Temple was a training institution for monks at Mirokuji Temple, but because it was the family temple of the successive chief priests of Usa Shrine, it was not affected by the anti-Buddhist movement. The position of chief priest was originally held by the Ogami clan, a powerful local clan in Bungo, but in the Heian period, the Usa clan took over and the position has been passed down through the family.

As Kiso Yoshinaka marched towards the capital, Taira no Munemori and Emperor Antoku and their entourage decided to flee the capital and initially travelled by sea to Dazaifu, but a rebellion occurred and they retreated to Usa Jingu Shrine. Usa Kinmichi, the chief priest, was Kiyomori's son-in-law, and his residence became Emperor Antoku's temporary residence. The Taira clan subsequently recaptured Fukuhara and attempted to re-enter Kyoto, but were defeated at Ichinotani and Yashima by Yoshitsune's arrival, and were ultimately destroyed at Dannoura.

Following the fall of the Kamakura Shogunate, the Grand Priest Itozukintsura took over the former Dairakuji Temple, originally located at the mouth of the Yakata River. Emperor Godaigo established this temple as an imperial temple and continued to support the Southern Court. The principal image, the Maitreya Buddha, along with the two attendant statues and the Four Heavenly Kings, are from the Insei period and are designated Important Cultural Properties. They are stored in a sturdy building. The head priest gave us a thorough explanation as we were able to view the statue. The principal image, with its plump features in the Jocho style, is reminiscent of the Amida Buddha statue at Byodo-in Temple in Uji. However, the Buddha's lotus pedestal is missing a step and is lower, and the back is different from the original, making it difficult to designate as a National Treasure. I now understand that the distinction between National Treasure and Important Cultural Property is determined from such perspectives.

During the Sengoku period, the border area between Buzen and Bungo was a fierce battleground between the Ouchi clan from the north, and later the Mori clan, and Otomo Sorin from within Bungo Prefecture. Although Usa and the Kunisaki Peninsula are sacred areas, they were under heavy pressure from Otomo Sorin, who converted to Christianity and oppressed Buddhism. However, many pagodas like the Kunisaki Pagoda and medieval rock-carved Buddhas remain, expanding my imagination for my next stroll. Tokoji Temple is lined with 500 arhats, built from the end of the Edo period to the Meiji period. I love the flashy shrines and temples with long histories, but I'm also moved by the more modest religious sites.