Hida Takayama ~APR,2025~

Last year I stayed at a hotel in Furukawa and enjoyed the cherry blossoms, but they had already started to fall, so this year I stayed at a hotel in Takayama a little earlier. This time I was determined to see the three great cherry trees of Hida: the Weeping Cherry Tree at Saikoji Temple, the Shogawa Cherry Tree, and the Garyu Cherry Tree at Hida Ichinomiya. It was so cold that light snow fell as we crossed Hirayu Pass (1,400 meters above sea level), so I had a bad feeling about it, but it seems that the cherry blossoms are blooming 1-2 weeks later than usual this year. Nevertheless, the cherry blossoms in the town were starting to bloom, so I was able to enjoy cherry blossom viewing while walking around the town. The clear streams of the Hida Mountains, including the main Miyagawa River, in the midtown of Takayama, and the sound of flowing water can be heard everywhere, probably because there are waterways all over the place.

Originally, the provincial capital was located in Kokufu-cho, north of the city, but its location has not yet been determined. Although it was a small province with one province and three counties, it had abundant timber and mineral resources, and it seems that a lot of timber was supplied and carpenters were dispatched to the construction of Heian-kyo. During the Muromachi and Sengoku periods, the area was divided into four clans: the Anenokoji clan, who were appointed as provincial governors and settled in the area; the Ema clan, who were dispatched to the Kamakura Shogunate; the Uchigashima clan, who were dispatched by the Ashikaga Shogunate; and the Miki clan, who exerted their influence locally as vassals of the Shugo Kyogoku clan. Last year, I visited the Ema clan's residence, which was based in the north, but this year, I first visited the Kiun Castle of the Uchigashima clan, which was buried in an instant when a mountain collapsed in the great earthquake of 1585 (Tensho 13). They ruled Shirakawa-go, located in the upper reaches of the Shogawa River, for 120 years over four generations.

The Miki clan, who expanded their influence mainly in Gero in the south, cooperated with the Anenokoji clan, who had influence in Furukawa, and aimed to unify Hida. The Anenokoji clan is a descendant of the Koichijo line of the Fujiwara clan, and one of their ancestors was Fujiwara no Michito, who was favored by Emperor Sanjo and harassed by Fujiwara no Michinaga.

This family was appointed governor of Hida Province during the Kenmu Restoration, but later split into three local families and weakened. One of these, the Kojima (Aneyakoji) family, adopted a son from the growing Miki clan, and had the Imperial Court acknowledge that the Aneyakoji and Miki clans had merged, with the Miki clan taking the name Aneyakoji. The Miki Aneyakoji clan then moved their base to Matsukura Castle (Takayama City), a sturdy castle at an altitude of 860 meters that offers a panoramic view of the Takayama Basin from its summit.

The unification of Hida was achieved by the Miki and Anenokoji families, but six years later, Toyotomi Hideyoshi ordered Kanamori Nagachika to conquer Hida, and Matsukura Castle fell. The Kanamori clan built Takayama Castle, and Takayama became the castle town of the Kanamori clan for six generations and a hundred years. This town became a shogunate territory in 1692 (the 5th year of the Genroku era), after Yoritoki, who served as Tsunayoshi's chamberlain, was ousted and transferred to the Dewa Kamiyama Domain.

Takayama Castle was demolished, and the Takayama Jin'ya magistrate's office was established at the foot of the castle ruins, where 25 magistrates were assigned. Due to the inbound tourism effect, the area is full of foreign tourists even on weekdays. The rice yield of Hida Province was 33,000 koku when the Kanamori clan was appointed, and 56,000 koku at the end of the Edo period, but the dignity of the magistrate's office building is comparable to that of a feudal lord with a yield of over 100,000 koku. Among the successive magistrates, the Ohara father and son were famous for their bad governance, and in particular, the son Masazumi was involved in repeated uprisings and petitions, and was finally consulted by the senior councilor Matsudaira Sadanobu and exiled to Hachijojima. In addition to the harsh punishment, the ban on logging was issued due to the depletion of good quality timber resources and the unprofitability of timber transportation costs, which caused a strong backlash from the people of the domain who made their living from the timber business.

Takayama was laid out by Kanamori Nagachika and the second feudal lord, Kaneshige, but there are many temples along the edge of the basin, and the Higashiyama Promenade was developed to connect them. If you climb the steps at the entrance to the promenade, you will see the bell tower gate of Unryu-ji Temple. Nagachika lost his eldest son in the Honno-ji Incident, and had his family residing at Unryu-ji Temple, where he had the gate of Takayama Castle relocated.

Nagachika, who died in Fushimi after retiring, was buried at Sogenji Temple, but was later reburied at a subtemple of Daitokuji Temple in Kyoto, and a memorial tower was placed there along with the graves of his vassals who committed suicide. What is interesting is that behind it is the grave of Ohara Tsugumasa, the magistrate who caused the Ohara Incident mentioned above. It is hard to tell at first glance, but it appears to have been pulled down many times and is damaged.

The Hokkeji Temple is the resting place of Mitsumasa, the legitimate grandson of Kato Kiyomasa. Tadahiro, who succeeded Kiyomasa in Higo with 540,000 koku of rice, was stripped of his throne in 1632, and Mitsumasa was entrusted to the Kanamori family. It is said that Mitsumasa either committed suicide the following year or died of illness, but the third feudal lord, Kanamori Shigeyori, built a temple of the Nichiren sect, the sect of the Kato family, to commemorate Mitsumasa's soul. After the Kanamori clan was transferred to the Dewa Kaminoyama Domain mentioned above, they were soon transferred again to the Gujo Domain, but the Kanamori clan themselves were stripped of their throne in 1758.

A statue of Yamaoka Tesshu, one of the key figures in the bloodless surrender of Edo and an active member of the Meiji government, stands at Takayama Jinya. He accompanied his father (Ono Takafuku) to his post as Hida County Magistrate, and after spending his childhood in Takayama, he returned to Edo and was adopted by the Yamaoka family. At Soyu-ji Temple, his parents' graves are located under a weeping cherry tree with a great view. The posthumous name on the tombstone is said to be in Tesshu's handwriting. 

Although the Garyu Sakura tree in Hida Ichinomiya ended in failure, the neighboring tree bloomed early and was about 70% in bloom. At the foot of the tree, there is a small shrine dedicated to Miki Kunitsuna, the son-in-law of the head of the Miki Anenokoji clan. After Matsukura Castle was taken by Kanamori Nagachika and he retired, he tried to make a comeback but was killed. However, he showed the last spirit of the Hida clan to Hideyoshi and his subordinate Kanamori Nagachika, who were in a hurry to unify the country.

Hida came under the influence of the Yamato Imperial Court from the latter half of the 4th century, but the Nihon Shoki records a rebellion by Ryomen Sukuna during the reign of Emperor Nintoku. It is unclear whether he was a demon or a powerful clan leader, but he is said to have founded Senkoji Temple.

Enku stayed at the temple in the late 17th century and carved Ryoumen Sukuna along with many other Buddhas.

The population of Hida was 94,000 at the end of the Edo period, and is now just under 140,000. The population ratio between the end of the Edo period and now is similar to that of Noto. Takayama City is the largest city or town in Japan, with an area of 2,200 km2, roughly the same size as Tokyo, and is home to 80,000 people. I believe that the reason why such wonderful cultural heritage remains in rural areas is due to the wisdom of the people who have continued to protect history and traditions while keeping an eye on urbanization and centralization.